Mal..

Steps

1. Get a surfboard and wetsuit if possible by buying or renting it. There's nothing that can turn you off surfing quicker than icy cold water or losing your bikini while you're surfing.
2. Practice lying on the board on the sand. Make sure you're not next to the waves or they'll wash you down.
3. Put your feet right up the back of the board. (But avoid having your foot so far back that you'll you'll never get going on an actual wave.)
4. With your right heel still at the back of the board bring your left leg bent up as if you're a ballerina. (Note if you are goofy footed, you will put your left foot in back not in the front.)
5. Jump up as quickly as you can with your feet in the same position.
6. Practice that movement a couple of times then get into the water with your board and do the movement when you see a wave coming.
7. Keep practicing. If you can't get the hang of it get some surf lessons.
8. It will take some time to find your center of balance for paddling and sitting, but it will come eventually. Obviously, too far forwards on the board and you'll take a nose dive, but too far back and you'll miss the wave.

Tips

• Since it's your first time bring a friend to help you, preferably a surfie friend. Besides it's less embarrassing with a friend when the wave dumps you.
• Avoid rips; they look like lots of sand at the top of the water.
• Follow safety signs and the advice of experienced surfers at the break.
• Start with a foam board; fiber glass ones can hurt people, especially if you have just started.
• Single women might attempt to draft a random surfer guy to provide a free lesson. Many are willing to teach if asked in the correct style.
• Learn the "rules" of the break. After you've gotten off your wave, do not paddle up the middle where other surfers will be coming. Instead, paddle off to the side of the wave as to not get into anyone's way.
• Also learn that the first one that catches the wave, has the right of way... just like driving. Try to communicate with the other surfers to find out which way they are going.
• Longboards, 8 feet or more are a must when learning
• Purchase used board which is all beat up, this way experienced surfers know your a beginner, also you'll have more cash in your pocket when you are ready to upgrade
• If you practice surfing for two weeks consectuively, you'll be outside with the big boys in no time.
• Surfing will change your outlook on life and the environment

Warnings

• Don't surf too close to the rocks.
• Don't surf with nobody else around if you're a beginner. (Or even if you are not a beginner. Anyone can get into trouble at any time!)
• Learn to surf in the white water, in front of a lifeguard, you have no idea how powerful the ocean can be.